So, you’ve been to Naples before. You’ve done Pompeii and you’ve done Herculaneum and now you are looking for something to do other than an organised tour. Well try this stroll. You’ll see two castles, a royal palace, and a most incredible arcaded shopping centre. Additionally, you will have some lovely photo opportunities of a distant Ischia, Vesuvius across the bay, and cruise ships at the piers. The traffic is not too bad, by Neapolitan standards, there are plenty of refreshment opportunities, and a linear park with plenty of benches.

And, how strenuous is it? Well I’m well into my sixties, definitely of a chunky stature, and my knees creak. I did it one afternoon after spending the morning trudging around Pompeii. I had a few sit-downs on the way, but I found it to be a comfortable stroll.

The starting point is at the main cruise terminal of Naples. If you are lucky, your ship will moor there, although Costa Cruises have priority. If you are down at the old fish quay, as we were with P&O, then you will need to make your way to the start point, by shuttle bus or other means.

1. With your back to the terminal you will see Castel Nuovo immediately in front of you. Cross the road and walk slightly up hill with the Castel on your left. Turn left and find the entrance which is obvious. You may enter the courtyard free of charge and have a nose around, or just admire the architecture from the outside.

2. Cross the little park opposite the castle and turn left up the Via Vittorio Emanuele III. After a short distance you will see the San Carlo theatre on your left. Immediately opposite is a large white building witha curved façade, ornate pillars and many statues. This is the Galleria UmbertoI. It is a shopping centre, but an incredibly ornate one. Built in 1887 in the form of a cross, it has a great glass-roofed arcade, a dome which is over 180 ft tall, and a mosaic of the zodiac on the floor.

3. After visiting the Galleria, continue walking in the same direction as before but bear left after a very short distance. Keep the fountain/traffic island on your right and after a few paces enter the huge Piazza Plebiscito. The building on your left with many statues adorning the facade is the Royal Palace of Naples (Palazzo Reale di Napoli). Across the Piazza is the domed basilica of San Francesco di Paola, which reminds me a little of The Pantheon in Rome.

4. When you are ready to leave the Piazza, take the exit which is at the opposite end of the Royal Palace façade from where you entered.  This will take you out onto the tree lined Via Console Cesario which leads directly downhill to the sea. Stay on the left side of the road amongst the trees where you will find many benches, where you may wish to rest a while in the shade. Here you will also find panoramic views over Naples port. You willbe able to take photographs of your cruise ship from here if she is on one ofthe nearer berths. Or you may only get a glimpse of a funnel behind the Costa and MSC ships, as we did. Before you get to the sea front road, at the bottom of the hill, cross over this quieter road and you will be presented with a pedestrian crossing just on the corner when you arrive at the much busier Via Nazario Saura.

5. Cross the Via Nazario Saura to the sea front and stroll along the prom with the sea on your left. This is a very pretty walk with little marinas, statues, and an ornate fountain. You also have views across the bay of Vesuvius and of, a more distant, Ischia. Jutting out in to the sea on along spit you will see your final destination, which is the islet of Megarida dominated by the imposing Castel dell ‘Ovo. The surrounding area is the Santa Lucia of that most famous Neapolitan song. The castle is open to the public and there are many restaurants on the islet and on the jetties around the marina.

6. As you go along the bridge towards the castle, you pass between two square, squat gatehouses. Once past them look for a narrow staircasein the parapet to your left. This leads down to the unpretentious Caffé al Barcadero. It is a lovely little place to sit by the harbour and rest while you enjoy a drink, snack or even lunch. Nibbles are served automatically with drinks, but this does not mean that you will be presented with an inflated bill. Prices are very modest for drinks and food. If you prefer something a little grander there is no shortage of restaurants to choose from in the vicinity.

7. Sooner or later you will be ready to make your way back to the ship. Basically there are three options.
i) You may simply retrace your steps.
ii) Or, retrace your steps as far as the tree lined street that you came down earlier, but do not cross over to it. Just continue along the main road.  This is shorter and will take you directly back to your start point. But! You will be accompanied by noisy traffic for most of the way.
iii) Do what I did.  As you leave the bridge, take the light-controlled crossing over to the Grande Albergo Vesuvio Hotel and go right to the first corner. Here you will find a taxi rank, usually lots of taxis waiting. Depending on where your ship is moored, and how heavy the traffic is, the fare should be between €6 and €10.

8. Finally if you want to recc’e or rehearse this plan and are au fait with Google Earth, most of this route is viewable in street view.